Abaete’s Fall 2008 collection affixed a clear point of view and cohesive aesthetic. The pieces weren’t over-designed; rather simply constructed, leaving the difficulty to reside in the decision of which piece to favor. Never to mistake simplicity with ease, the mark of a great designer is the ability to swathe the complexity of a creation in its beauty. SoHo-based designer Laura Poretzsky ventured beyond the corporeal Brazilian fanfare that we’ve come to expect from Abaete, showcasing looks inspired by competitive combat.

Rich metal grey wool fabrics bedecked with pewter detailing, reminiscent of jousting and fencing armor from the late middle ages set the tone for this collection.  Rooted in skill and precision, the inspiration from swordmanship sporting attire is quite reflective in Poretzky’s fall foretell, which featured jackets with strong, structured shoulders and inverted pleated sleeves.  Circle skirts, belted waistlines, blouses with ruffled shoulder details, and beautiful midnight and dark orchid jewel tones were infused to add that touch of sensuality that Poretzky is known for.

Key Notes

In the spirit of Olympics, the great spectacle that first showcased the deceptively intense sport of fencing in 1902, and in staying true to what I believe to be a major source of inspiration for this omnibus, the three medalists (in no particular ranking) for the Fall 2008 Abaete collection are as follows:

• The Cadet vest in black/white wool (shown left), although not the most innovative look to come down a runway, is flawlessly executed.
• The Addison black coat in woven coating is a beautiful semi formal covering with clean lines and exceptional tailoring.
• The Violetta dress in dark orchid (shown right) with ruffled sleeves is a brilliant display of your "non basic" – basic dress. The color is purely mesmerizing and the versatility is endless.

Hide The Bootie?

Pumps, or in this case booties with socks is a concept that perhaps deserves some reconsideration. After all, isn’t the point of wearing a sexy bootie to look well…sexy? Nothing screams pre adolescence “Sunday’s Best” like bobby socks with a dress shoe; and quite honestly, there is nothing arousing about that. But, kudos to Poretzky for passing on the opaque tights phenom. How many more seasons will we have to see those on the runway in every color in the pantone index? Seeing bare legs in a fall collection is refreshing and a welcomed break from the norm of recent seasons past.

Abaete gave us a robustly elegant collection without a lot of surprises. Portezsky excels in piecing together a collection of clothing designed for the woman whose taste is absolute without many twists, showing an appreciation for the details in superb construction.

www.abaete.com