London Fashion Week is all about the wow. It’s the heart of creativity in fashion and the platform for the freakishly chic, daring brain offspring of artists who have not yet established themselves as a “big name” design house. One of many covet worthy collections shown at London Fashion Week was that of Basso & Brooke. The collection is a spectacle of colors, wild prints, and unique textures. Noting the architectural influences, designers Christopher Brook and Bruno Basso of Basso & Brooke presented a compilation of looks, each taking on a power and life of their own. Models were virtually engulfed in voluminous billows of brocades, ruffles, and fabrics that enlist the shapes and consistencies of aged sedimentary rocks, gravel, and sandstone. The vivacious colors emulated clay matter, and elements of the ocean, sun, and sky. While strong structures and angled patterns invite us to ponder the relationship of the environment to edifices that seemingly embrace the sky and tower the terrain like steel Gods.

 

This collection succeeded in evoking the sentiment of the fashion “art experience.”  Basso & Brooke funneled an aesthetic that captured the imagination and attention the entire expanse of their fall 2008 anthology.

Get transparent this spring in sexy sheer fabrics.  This season's look is light, airy, and fresh, and filled with whimsical sensuality. 

Spring 2008 Collections:  1. Chloe 2. Sonia Rykiel 3. Anne Valerie Hash 4. Costume National 5. Karl Lagerfeld 6. Jean Paul Gaultier 7. Salvatore Ferragamo 8. Bendelisi

Images: www.net-a-porter.com  

Equestrian chic, a style coined by iconic designer Ralph Lauren, best describes the beautifully opulent fall 2008 Carolina Herrera anthology.  With the workmanship of a couturier, Herrera styled a collection filled with countryside fantasy and uptown sophistication; layering robust tweed fabrics over delicate tie neck chiffon blouses and displaying a fresh mix of leg wear textures and colors that played peek-a-boo with hip slouch boots.  Sumptuous fur and leather were ubiquitous, from theatrical fedoras to Austrian inspired waist detailing and vest garnishments. The collection is “a lot of fantasy mixed with grandeur,” described Herrera.

“Venezuelan-born Carolina Herrera designs precisely crafted creations that hint at couture. Founded in 1981, her internationally renowned company encompasses perfume and accessories lines that are as crucial as her fashions; nearly ten men’s and women’s fragrances have been created in conjunction with Antonio Puig since 1988. With a business reputation that’s on par with fellow designers Oscar de la Renta and Bill Blass, Herrera’s clothing mirrors the designer’s own sophistication and class, and puts a modern spin on Old World charm.” – New York Magazine

 

 

Photos: www.nymag.com

Geometric prints add up to absolute hotness this spring. Make sure you get the right angles.

1. Marc Jacobs Ottoman Tunic - $1050 2. Karta Grid Print Dress - $305 3. Emilio Pucci Torre Print Batwing Tunic - $1,305 4. Zac Posen Patent East West Clutch - $795 5. Missoni Espadrille Wedges - $560 6. Marc by Marc Jacobs Cubist Print Dress $298 7. Emilio Pucci Torre Print Bikini - $290 8. Antik Batik Turel Halter Jumpsuit - $165

Images: www.net-a-porter.com  

Abaete’s Fall 2008 collection affixed a clear point of view and cohesive aesthetic. The pieces weren’t over-designed; rather simply constructed, leaving the difficulty to reside in the decision of which piece to favor. Never to mistake simplicity with ease, the mark of a great designer is the ability to swathe the complexity of a creation in its beauty. SoHo-based designer Laura Poretzsky ventured beyond the corporeal Brazilian fanfare that we’ve come to expect from Abaete, showcasing looks inspired by competitive combat.

Rich metal grey wool fabrics bedecked with pewter detailing, reminiscent of jousting and fencing armor from the late middle ages set the tone for this collection.  Rooted in skill and precision, the inspiration from swordmanship sporting attire is quite reflective in Poretzky’s fall foretell, which featured jackets with strong, structured shoulders and inverted pleated sleeves.  Circle skirts, belted waistlines, blouses with ruffled shoulder details, and beautiful midnight and dark orchid jewel tones were infused to add that touch of sensuality that Poretzky is known for.

Key Notes

In the spirit of Olympics, the great spectacle that first showcased the deceptively intense sport of fencing in 1902, and in staying true to what I believe to be a major source of inspiration for this omnibus, the three medalists (in no particular ranking) for the Fall 2008 Abaete collection are as follows:

• The Cadet vest in black/white wool (shown left), although not the most innovative look to come down a runway, is flawlessly executed.
• The Addison black coat in woven coating is a beautiful semi formal covering with clean lines and exceptional tailoring.
• The Violetta dress in dark orchid (shown right) with ruffled sleeves is a brilliant display of your "non basic" – basic dress. The color is purely mesmerizing and the versatility is endless.

Hide The Bootie?

Pumps, or in this case booties with socks is a concept that perhaps deserves some reconsideration. After all, isn’t the point of wearing a sexy bootie to look well…sexy? Nothing screams pre adolescence “Sunday’s Best” like bobby socks with a dress shoe; and quite honestly, there is nothing arousing about that. But, kudos to Poretzky for passing on the opaque tights phenom. How many more seasons will we have to see those on the runway in every color in the pantone index? Seeing bare legs in a fall collection is refreshing and a welcomed break from the norm of recent seasons past.

 

Abaete gave us a robustly elegant collection without a lot of surprises. Portezsky excels in piecing together a collection of clothing designed for the woman whose taste is absolute without many twists, showing an appreciation for the details in superb construction.

www.abaete.com